Pichilemu is a little surf town south of Santiago. It’s an ideal destination for backpackers or families looking for an affordable getaway. It’s gorgeous, funky, relaxing, and cheap.

If you drive or take the direct bus from Santiago through Melipilla, the trip just takes three hours. If you take the longer route through Rancagua, Santa Cruz, Peralillo, and other pretty cities, it takes five hours.

On the last leg of the bus ride, I met a sweet librarian named Mercedes who works at a school in Pichilemu. Mercedes called her friends who run guesthouses to help me find a place to stay. The friends’ guesthouses were full, but Mercedes got off the bus with me, to help look for a suitable place to stay.

I chose the Hotel Costa Real, on Pichilemu’s quaint main street. The hotel has clean, cozy, concrete rooms with private bath, but by far its best feature is that breakfast is included and delivered to the room at the time you choose. At 10am each morning, a lady knocked on my door with a smile and a tray of toast, cheese, jam, butter, and tea. These simple ingredients have never tasted so good. This hotel was just what I needed: a quiet place to rest.

Pichilemu has dozens of guesthouses, almost all within walking distance of the beach. Prices fluctuate based on the season. I understand that the place is much wilder in January and February, when the whole country is on vacation.

The town also has dozens of restaurants, most of which specialize in fresh fish. I especially liked Pepe Cuervo, which has a shaded deck overlooking the ocean. I ate there three days in a row! The staff were nice and helpful and let me sit there all afternoon to read, write, and reflect.

On the main street I also I had the best taco I’ve eaten in Chile (I’m a Mexican food snob… so this is a true compliment!)

I bought juicy strawberries and plump blueberries, which I enjoyed on the beach.

Overall, Pichilemu is more relaxing and less expensive than other beach towns I’ve visited in Chile. Highly recommended!